Two new nephews in my life. Grant Leonard and Holland Dwayne were born on 3.17 and 3.21.
Category: Uncategorized
From a visit to Stephen Powers’ studio to get a few things screenprinted.
bread.
I made this bread over the weekend and a slice of it was heaven on it’s first day.
cuba.
Day One / 02.08.17
Travel + The Surreal
If you had asked me one, three, even five years ago if this day would ever come, I would have said definitely not. Cuba had never really seemed like a possibility (and for a long time, truly wasn’t), but once I’d read travelers’ positive experiences visiting the country, I was sold.
Our early, direct flight to Havana was buzzing with excited tourists. As the wheels touched down on Cuban ground, an applause erupted and we all stared out the window at the sun we were about to be under, in a country we couldn’t wait to explore.
After exchanging our Euros and Canadian dollars at the airport for the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC), we were greeted by our Cuban host, Antonio, who lead us to our ride: An electric blue 1956 Studebaker, driven by Jamil, the driver during our stay. Climbing into the car didn’t seem real, and I waited for us to drive off the movie set, and climb into another, newer vehicle. This was a feeling, I learned, that would stay with me throughout the entire trip.
We drove with windows down in lieu of air conditioning, and talking over a 60 year old roaring engine, bumped along the road until we reached our home in the East Havana village of Cojimar.
Antonio’s house in Cojimar was more than we could have hoped for. The perfect 1950s time capsule was tucked away in a quiet, lush neighborhood.
After settling at the house, Jamil drove us into Havana for the first time, dropping us in Central Parque. I stood in shock as he drove away, as there we were — suddenly in the middle of Havana, alone, an entire day in front of us. The feeling was pure excitement and we stopped to gather ourselves, surrounded by locals and the dome of Capitolio in the distance. I couldn’t believe it and wanted to immediately dive into the buzz of the streets.
We weaved through Habana Vieja for hours, first stopping for drinks at Monserrate Bar, exploring Plaza Vieja to Plaza de la Catedral and continuing to wander. That evening we dined at a paladar in Habana Vieja and listened to live music at the Hemingway-storied El Floridita (great drinks, very touristy).
Day Two / 02.09.17
Habana Vieja & Vedado
In the morning we were served our first tropical breakfast of eggs, bacon, fresh fruits and juices on the backyard patio. Afterward Jamil picked us up and delivered us to our host Antonio’s gallery, Factoria Habana, in Habana Vieja.
Antonio showed us the current exhibit, and soon we were back wandering the lively streets of Old Havana.
In the afternoon we visited Museo de la Revolucion, housed in the former Presidential palace. The museum provided us a better idea of the revolution events, and the roles that Che, Batista, Fidel and others played in the government over the years.
We ate lunch overlooking the Malecon, with a giant pitcher of sangria, watching the old cars fly by as people strolled along the sea wall. As the day receded, we walked the Malecon to the Hotel Nacional for a mojito on the back patio and, the hotel being tourist flooded, we fled to buy cheap beers and retreated again to the Malecon, where we sat until the sun went down.
Day Three / 02.10.17
Beach Birthday, Cigars & Dinner at a Gorgeous Dilapidated Paladar
After a morning at home — and an hourlong wait at a local bank to exchange currency (an event in which David learned the importance of the word “ultimo” when waiting on line) — the day truly began.
We drove to a nearby beach, Santa Maria del Mar, on Playas del Este. The beach was beautiful and at 2 CUCS per chair, we camped out for the day and drank incredibly cheap pina coladas and beer. As the sun receded we combed the beach for corals and came upon a freshly-dead, perfectly puffed puffer fish that washed onto the shore.
After cleaning up for dinner and spending some time at home, Jamil took us to Habana Vieja for a cigar and daiquiri back at Monserrate Bar. We made our way to our dinner spot, one of Havana’s most revered paladars, La Guarida, in Centro Habana. I’d read a lot about La Guarida in advance — and how to snag a reservation, which are an email crap shoot and required some diligence. But on arrival, it was even more than I’d imagined. We entered a rundown yet beautiful, raw and palace-like space in a quiet area of the neighborhood. Ascending a grand staircase, we landed in the dining area with high ceilings and old wood tables; the atmosphere was beautifully unique, time-worn yet preserved.
Day Four / 02.11.17
Plaza de la Revolución, Fusterlandia, Back to Old Havana, Vedado Jazz
There were a few important places that we hadn’t yet visited at this point and, with time running out, we loaded our last full day with them.
Jamil first drove us to the market in Vedado, to pick up some local wares.
We drove through Vedado, passing the magnificent homes— very different than the buildings we’d seen in Habana Vieja and Centro Habana. We stopped at the famous Plaza de la Revolución, where we wandered and observed the square and the José Martí Memorial .
Afterward we were determined to find the neighborhood called Fusterlandia we’d read about in guide books, but every mention to locals left them perplexed. Jamil quickly gathered where to drive — west of Havana, through Miramar, down the famed Fifth Avenue lined with homes of diplomats.
We soon arrived at Fusterlandia, a continually sprawling mosaic work that coats the surroundings of artist José Rodríguez Fuster’s studio in Jaimanitas. Our arrival was early and the gates to Fuster’s main studio — I likened the area to Pee Wee’s playhouse meets folk art — were not yet open. The sun hot overheard, we stopped at a nearby home selling beers for $1.50 CUC and wandered the area.
Fuster’s work was impressive, imaginative and gorgeously detailed — one can’t begin to imagine the hours poured into the ongoing tile art, ever in progress.
Back in Habana Vieja, we needed to buy the essentials. Jamil dropped us at a tobacco shop to purchase Cuban cigars and rum, and we weaved through the streets to dig through the little shops.
Then went home and watched the sun go down from the rooftop, followed by the most peaceful, quiet nap on the front porch.
That night we watched jazz at Jazz Club La Zorra y el Cuervo, where the music was good and the bartender cranked out mojitos all night.
Day Five / 02.12.17
Last Breakfast + Coming Home
Not a day we were looking forward to, but after a final breakfast on the patio, I spent a while under the trellis staring around the yard at all the greenery and flowers. Hummingbirds flew in and out.
Soon Jamil pulled up and we said goodbye to everyone at the house — Freddie, Jorge. In saying goodbye, Freddie translated Jamil’s Spanish goodbye: “It is clients like you we miss every day.”
I can’t say enough about Cuba. The landscape, the architecture, the culture and people whom we experienced warmth and welcoming. From the days flying around in an old car, navigating the neighborhoods, the food, the language. Wandering streets — and the unexpected relief of not having cell service during it all. The fast and slow, the color, the seemingly simple and precious days of children playing games in the street, of a man carrying a palette of eggs, of selling fruit and meat on the corners.
At a restaurant in Habana Vieja, a waiter in a John Lennon t-shirt asked where we were from. When we told him New York, he asked if we’d ever been to Strawberry Fields. That was his dream, he said. And realizing that we’d go home to New York and this man would not be seeing Strawberry Fields in the foreseeable future, it made me wish we could bring him with us.
Big love for you — amor —Cuba.
In honor of International Women’s Day, posting a few of my very favorite women—my sisters and niece.
Worth a listen — the story of a refugee in America.
It is heartbreaking to think of these people being turned away from the safety and quality of life in a better place.
hawaii.
David and I traveled to Hawaii over New Years. We spent six full days on the island of Kauai on the south shore, at the Ko’a Kea at Poipu Beach.
This was my first time in Hawaii and, having wished to visit for a long time, it was quite a dream. Our trip was full of beaches, coffee, stock-image worthy sunsets and incredible scenery.
Day One / 12.28.16
So much travel.
This was not a fun day. In fact, had I known what I was actually in for (David had warned me it was a long flight), I might have chosen a different destination. Leaving New York at 11:30am Eastern time, we arrived at our resort in Kauai — after snagging our luggage and rental car — at 10:30pm Hawaiian time. (Hint: Hawaii is five hours behind New York). A wild rooster cock-a-doodle-do’s outside our window at 3am.
Day Two / 12.29.16
Polihale State Park Beach
After sixteen hours of travel (eleven of them in the air) we were ready to explore. We rented the perfect little Jeep Wrangler Sport, grabbed coffee (quickly learning how tasty Hawaiian coffee is) and headed east from our resort, which was located on the southernmost end of the island, near Poipu Beach.
We didn’t have a destination — just hoping to get a lay of the land. We drove through the tiny, lively town of Waimea and curved around to the west coast of the island. Without a map, we relied on the coast as a guide and hoped to find a beach to crash at for a moment, or vegetation for me to photograph (a favorite pastime). Taking a chance on a roadside sign announcing POLIHALE STATE PARK, we turned down a dirt road riddled with more potholes and adventurous, rueful Ford Mustangs than I could have comically written. Our Jeep did us well. At the end of the road, but not before passing several false alarm picnic spots, we came to the reward of our potholed journey: A quiet, rolling sandy beach brushed against the southernmost cliffs of the Napali Coast.
On the ride back from Polihale we stopped in Waimea for a meal and wander. Rainbows popped up during the drive.
Day Three / 12.30.16
North End
With most of the south/west shores out of the way, we drove long the east side, then up toward the north end. I was surprised to see how the landscape during this route differed from the surroundings of the previous day. As we curved further north, there were more than a handful of beautiful beaches, lush vegetation, and increasingly elevated terrain as we neared the Napali Coast.
Nearing our destination of Hanalei, we crossed several one-lane bridges that are thoroughfares to the small village. Hanalei, full of tourists, small shops and churches, was quietly situated at the base of some of the Nepali cliffs.
“Hanalei is a real place?” David had mentioned earlier. “That’s where Puff the Magic Dragon lives.”
Puff, the magic dragon lived by the sea
And frolicked in the autumn mist
in a land called Honnah Lee
Puff, the magic dragon lived by the sea
And frolicked in the autumn mist
in a land called Honnah Lee
Well, almost.
Around Hanalei, we explored the Manini-holo dry cave, sat on Haena Beach and watched surfers attempt very large waves. We stopped for a pint at Tahiti Nui, where a photograph of George Clooney sitting on a bar stool two seats down from ours, was displayed — The Descendants was filmed here.
On our return we stopped in Princeville, to visit the Instagrammable Queens Bath — though, we learned, there were hoops to jump through (read: a very muddy trail) to reach this secluded shore. And to my disappointment, the surf was terribly strong (read: Hawaiian winter) allowing for no dips. The scenery was stunning regardless, and giant winter waves crashing over the blackened cool lava rocks, with the Napali Coast tucked hazy in the distance. I spent many minutes drinking the scene.
Day Four / 12.31.16
David Reasonably Halts Movement, Then: Fireworks & Hot Tubs
This started as a pool day. We also snorkeled, which was unfortunately not as fruitful as the waters off the Bahamas that I’d previously trolled.
We hadn’t made New Years Eve plans and liked it that way. A day at the pool was quiet, slow and welcomed. Around dark we walked to a promised fireworks display at the nearby Poipu Beach Park, and when they delayed, sat in a hot tub for too long until they did indeed explode overhead — beauty. And having lowered heart rates from the warm water blanket, 2016 ended for us at 9:30pm. No regrets.
Day Five / 01.01.17
Kalalau Trail
I had hoped to start the new year this way, and bless David, seriously. He woke up early with me, drove us up to Ke’e Beach, an hour and half away on the north end of the island. We hiked two miles along the coast, striking views all the way, to our turnaround point at Hanakāpīʻai Beach, which, we learned is one of the deadliest — if not the deadliest beach in the world. A sign on the trail indicated that at last count, some 80+ people had died in the waters at the beach due to strong currents. Needless to say, we did not swim, but instead ate lunch on the shore.
After two miles back down, our shoes were caked in layers of mud from the dirt-ridden, slippery path. We waded in the clear waters of Ke’e to clean and cool down. My Nikes logged the muck in their mesh.
Kalalau did not disappoint; a must for any Kauai visitor, if you ask me. David might disagree.
Then, more scenery on the ride home and laying out until the sun went down.
Day Six / 01.02.17
David’s Lazy Birthday Wish
A pool day by the ocean to celebrate (relax) on David’s birthday, under the sun drinking mai tais until dark. We ate dinner at the local Eating House 1849.
Day Seven / 01.03.17
Waimea Canyon
We’d heard a lot about this place during our stay, and after we missed it (bypassed, actually, when we drove through Waimea) on the map during our spontaneous Polihale drive on Day Two, I definitely wanted to give it a proper visit.
Travelers noted to get there early, as the day nears noon and the clouds descend on the Canyon, obstructing the money shot. “Still beautiful,” they’d say, regardless of the cloud cover, but I wanted the whole scope.
We got up early and were on the road at eight. We planned a breakfast stop in Waimea, and circling the main street found little open but a tiny grocery store. Our time in the store, I realized, was a familiar slice of small town America; a group of workers gathered at a corner booth on a meal break, hot trays simmering under lights, Top 40 music. The end caps stocked with the monotonous cans wrapped in generic labels, but instead of the coconut variety. A case of pastries that could have been from Billings, or Boston, or Phoenix. They always look the same. Locals filled their baskets and using food stamps to pay. It is hard to believe that for these people it is not vacation, but another Tuesday in their America.
We climbed the steep roads winding up. David pulled over a dozen or more times for me to photograph. When we reached what looked like the end, we decided there might be more.
Then continuing to drive — maybe ten minutes more, we reached an overlook. It was crowded with tourists and buses and chickens, but above all — really, above all — we looked over the rust colored tiers of Waimea Canyon, spotted with greens and the stroke of a waterfall.
We drove more. In the best moment we stood at the edge of the Canyon looking out, nearly alone. There were fresh ashes scattered in front of us. A very nice place to rest forever. A picture could not take it in, and I tried.
On the ride down the southern ocean spanned in front of us. It was blue, and then blue-gray, blue-white. It disappeared into some air, somewhere. Sometimes we’d see rain in the distance and know that a place out there existed, but still we wondered in the sun.
Carsick from the winding ride downhill, we stopped for lunch in the “biggest small town” of Hanapepe. At Bobbie’s we had a Hawaiian lunch that included the local favorite, saimin.
That evening after a final sunset, we had our final island dinner at Merriman’s on the south shore, eating fresh tuna in a round booth.
Day Eight / 01.04.17
Action Adventure Blastoff
This day.
A day I was not looking forward to, and at once: the most exciting day of them all.
We drove the 20 minutes to Port Allen before dawn, stopping at a local coffee spot for a sweet roll. At the Port we received our boat assignment and took motion sickness pills.
And at 8:30am we were on the water.
There were dolphins swimming along side, still asleep, we were told. Further out we stopped to snorkel in waters deeper than I’d explored. As the boat shifted west and curled north around the shore, we anticipated the big coast. Spray from whales spouted into the sky from time to time. The wake became rockier, but no less beautiful.
We sailed past Salt Pond Beach, Waimea, Polihale — places we’d seen from land. The landscape changed from ocean to dream as the Napali coast drew closer and eventually glowed in front of us. The magic of the morning light, filtered through the fog that powdered the cliffs; the silence broken only by wake scraping rocks, as it had for millions of years.
On the journey back to land we saw many whales breaching and heard them sing — and reminded, how humbling, how lucky to witness such large creatures.
…
Our boat docked at 1:30pm. We had a pint at Kauai Island Brewing, then made a quick stop at the coffee fields of Kauai Coffee to grab iced coffees and stock up on beans.
…
It was raining by 4:30. From under a tent in a field on airport grounds, we looked out to several concrete pads with helicopters rested on them. One of them would be ours for an hour.
A friendly bearded pilot approached and introduced himself as Guy. We strapped in and lifted headsets over our ears. Soon we floated up, doors off and a blast of wind. Sweeping views of the smooth, jagged green valley shifted closer and closer and drew on to the horizon. Weaving in and out of valleys and canyons, volcanic forms in perfect patterned waves surrounded and made us feel incredibly small. It was one of the most beautiful experiences of my life.
Hovering over the waters of the Na’Pali coast, a double rainbow formed through the rain and framed the cliffs. So thankful for this vacation.
Never sure, and might never know.
approximatelyes.com 
